Thursday, 13 September 2012
Dinner With Work
You've Got To Try It All
Where: Zeytoon, Cricklewood
When: August 2012
It's rare that I have a good or interesting dinner with my work colleagues, but on those occasions we have flexibility to spend our own money rather than vouchers we have always had a decent night out. Zeytoon is a Persian/Afghan restaurant in Cricklewood. We arrived around 8 PM and were quickly shown to our table. The restaurant was around a third full. One of our party had been doing some additional fasts after Ramadan so he was pretty hungry and we let his enthusiasm for food get the better of us. There was a wide choice of well-priced food on the menu and unable to decide we let greed get the better of us.
To start, we went with bread and mixed starters. Strangely enough the items I was least looking forward to tasted the best and the normally safe hummus was pretty awful. The Salad-e-Olvieh with chicken, egg and potato was good but my favourite were the two warm aubergine starters and I'm really not a big aubergine fan, Kashk-e-Bademjan which is a mashed aubergine dish and my unexpected favourite Burani Bademjan which was marinated grilled aubergine.
For our mains we started with a mixed grill with one skewer each of four kinds of Kebab, this was a great bargain as it worked out at around £11 each with loads of well marinated meat and lovely saffron rice. In all honesty we didn't need the other dishes but I was more than glad I tried them. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
To finish our gluttony we had two of the Afghan dishes and these were really nice and both something I'd not tried before. The first, pictured below was Mantu, which is a little like an Italian ravioli with tomato sauce, but topped with yoghurt. This was really tasty and reminds me once again how cuisine travels around the world. The second which escaped my camera was Qabli Polow Lamb Shank which was a delicious lamb shank that had been cooked in fruity brown rice. Wow, this was good and despite being full to bursting from the mixed grill I managed to eat my portion of the lamb. We finished our meal £25 lighter of the pocket but most likely 25lbs heavier than when we came in.
Zeytoon 94-96 Cricklewood Broadway, London, NW2 3EL
Location:
Cricklewood, London NW2 3EL, UK
Escape From the Carnival Part 1: A Trip to Salisbury
No Druids Here!
Where: Salisbury and Stonehenge
When: Carnival Weekend 2012
Every August we suffer with the same dilemma, do we embrace the Notting Hill Carnival or run to the hills, henges, and mountains or wherever else seems quiet, peaceful and relaxing? The last few years we have managed to escape abroad but this year we stayed in the UK and after trawling the English Heritage website for things to do we settled on Salisbury as it was a cheap train fare and there was enough for us to do to keep us out of the house from morning till night. We set off early in the morning to Waterloo where we arrived with plenty of time for our train and settled in with an M & S breakfast of fruit and pastries for the 90 minute ride into Salisbury. Before we knew it we were there and after a squeeze through the crowded ticket gates we found ourselves at the bus stop for the tourist bus to Stonehenge.
The tourist bus is timed to leave shortly after the London train arrives and you can easily spot which bus it is from the sign and the queue of assorted accents waiting underneath. The hop on hop off bus the goes from the station to Stonehenge, Old Sarum and back to town again. The fare is £20 including entry to Stonehenge and a pre-recorded tour in English that 75% of the occupants talk over as they don't understand a word of it. Thankfully for the non-English speaking tourists aboard the bus the audio guides at Stonehenge had a much larger range of languages. The bus takes the scenic route through town and the not so scenic stop at Salisbury Bus Station before taking the road towards Stonehenge. One big advantage of the tour bus is fast track entry to Stonehenge which on a busy day is great as you bypass the whole queue and go straight through to pick up your audio guide. It's not quite the stuff of VIPs but it is a great time saver.
To access Stonehenge you need to pass through a small tunnel under the road and on the other side you are treated to Stonehenge itself. I'm not a particularly spiritual person but the effects of walking around Stonehenge are something special, contemplating the mammoth effort it would have taken to erect such a structure that still stands many thousands of years later. The most amazing thing is despite all the examinations of the site nobody really knows what it was built for or exactly how the stones were transported to the area. Although the area and Stonehenge itself is quite small we spent an hour wondering around the site listening to the audio guide and taking photos.
We then hopped back on to the hop on hop off tourist bus and headed to Old Sarum. We weren't expecting much from Old Sarum as when we passed it on the way it just looked like a couple of ruins laid on top of a hill. Thankfully this couldn't have been further from the truth. Old Sarum was actually the town that was abandoned before Salisbury was formed. Luckily for us there was also a theme day complete with Knights in armour, medieval cooking and activities and entertainment for those with young ones. Additionally Old Sarum also provides amazing views out over the countryside and again, luckily for us we got to see some old fashioned aeroplanes fly over and people parachute jumping out of them. After all that excitement it was time to head into town and pay a visit to Salisbury Cathedral.
A short bus ride on the hop on hop off bus later and we were back in Salisbury town centre. The town centre is typically quaint and English filled with plenty of pubs and tea & cake places that reminded us a lot of Canterbury. The cathedral is not hard to spot as it has the tallest spire in the UK! We arrived a little later than planned but thankfully we had enough time to have a quick look around the cathedral but not quite enough time to catch the Magna Carta exhibit as it was closing just as we had arrived. The roof and colour of the cathedral interior was quite special and although we had to rush we managed to get a few nice pictures and soak up the atmosphere before evensong started. We then had a short walk in the cathedral grounds and took a few more pictures before heading back into town. As it was too early to eat we had a walk through the town centre and along by the river. It really was a perfect early evening for a relaxing walk.
We then headed towards the pub we had picked out from Trip Advisor, The Cloisters. It was set in a nice old fashioned building but was very quiet on arrival. We actually ended up getting table service which I always find a bit odd in a pub. We started off with a couple of much needed pints whilst reading the menus. A while later our waiter came back to take the orders, he was nice and polite but there seemed to be an air of the disorganised and unkempt about him, something I can be equally guilty of myself. I ordered the lamb shank with veg and my partner ordered the burger and chips. After a reasonable wait the food came. The lamb was nice and tender and fell right off the bone. However, for me the meal was spoiled slightly by the inexplicable serving of some over boiled, unseasoned canned vegetables on the side. They were completely unnecessary and took away a lot from a decent piece of pub food. Apparently the burger was pretty good as well. We also ordered dessert and coffees which seemed to throw our waiter a bit but we got two large and rather lovely warm slabs of chocolate fudge cake and some decent coffee. It was a really nice way to finish the meal. We were accidentally double billed for one of the items but it was instantly taken care of without question. Overall it was a good meal to set us up for our trip back home to London. It was a shame the pub was so quiet and lacking in atmosphere, maybe we were just there too early in the evening as there only seemed to be a table with tourists and two men that spent more time going out for a cigarette than eating or drinking.
We took the short walk back to Salisbury train station along a road filled with sweet little houses and after managing to avoid the drunk patrolling the platforms we were on the train and headed back to London to see if our flat was still in one piece. Walking back from White City the signs were not too bad, just a few groups of harmless drunks until we turned into the road near home with a large crowd spilling out into the road from both sides thanks to the take away and the pub. Thankfully the noise didn't really spill over at all and it was nice and peaceful by the time we got home. With the first day of the carnival successfully avoided we needed to catch some sleep as tomorrow we would hit the town tourist style!
Stonehenge Tour Bus
Salisbury Cathedral
The Cloisters 83 Catherine Street, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP1 2DH
Where: Salisbury and Stonehenge
When: Carnival Weekend 2012
Every August we suffer with the same dilemma, do we embrace the Notting Hill Carnival or run to the hills, henges, and mountains or wherever else seems quiet, peaceful and relaxing? The last few years we have managed to escape abroad but this year we stayed in the UK and after trawling the English Heritage website for things to do we settled on Salisbury as it was a cheap train fare and there was enough for us to do to keep us out of the house from morning till night. We set off early in the morning to Waterloo where we arrived with plenty of time for our train and settled in with an M & S breakfast of fruit and pastries for the 90 minute ride into Salisbury. Before we knew it we were there and after a squeeze through the crowded ticket gates we found ourselves at the bus stop for the tourist bus to Stonehenge.
The tourist bus is timed to leave shortly after the London train arrives and you can easily spot which bus it is from the sign and the queue of assorted accents waiting underneath. The hop on hop off bus the goes from the station to Stonehenge, Old Sarum and back to town again. The fare is £20 including entry to Stonehenge and a pre-recorded tour in English that 75% of the occupants talk over as they don't understand a word of it. Thankfully for the non-English speaking tourists aboard the bus the audio guides at Stonehenge had a much larger range of languages. The bus takes the scenic route through town and the not so scenic stop at Salisbury Bus Station before taking the road towards Stonehenge. One big advantage of the tour bus is fast track entry to Stonehenge which on a busy day is great as you bypass the whole queue and go straight through to pick up your audio guide. It's not quite the stuff of VIPs but it is a great time saver.
To access Stonehenge you need to pass through a small tunnel under the road and on the other side you are treated to Stonehenge itself. I'm not a particularly spiritual person but the effects of walking around Stonehenge are something special, contemplating the mammoth effort it would have taken to erect such a structure that still stands many thousands of years later. The most amazing thing is despite all the examinations of the site nobody really knows what it was built for or exactly how the stones were transported to the area. Although the area and Stonehenge itself is quite small we spent an hour wondering around the site listening to the audio guide and taking photos.
We then hopped back on to the hop on hop off tourist bus and headed to Old Sarum. We weren't expecting much from Old Sarum as when we passed it on the way it just looked like a couple of ruins laid on top of a hill. Thankfully this couldn't have been further from the truth. Old Sarum was actually the town that was abandoned before Salisbury was formed. Luckily for us there was also a theme day complete with Knights in armour, medieval cooking and activities and entertainment for those with young ones. Additionally Old Sarum also provides amazing views out over the countryside and again, luckily for us we got to see some old fashioned aeroplanes fly over and people parachute jumping out of them. After all that excitement it was time to head into town and pay a visit to Salisbury Cathedral.
A short bus ride on the hop on hop off bus later and we were back in Salisbury town centre. The town centre is typically quaint and English filled with plenty of pubs and tea & cake places that reminded us a lot of Canterbury. The cathedral is not hard to spot as it has the tallest spire in the UK! We arrived a little later than planned but thankfully we had enough time to have a quick look around the cathedral but not quite enough time to catch the Magna Carta exhibit as it was closing just as we had arrived. The roof and colour of the cathedral interior was quite special and although we had to rush we managed to get a few nice pictures and soak up the atmosphere before evensong started. We then had a short walk in the cathedral grounds and took a few more pictures before heading back into town. As it was too early to eat we had a walk through the town centre and along by the river. It really was a perfect early evening for a relaxing walk.
We then headed towards the pub we had picked out from Trip Advisor, The Cloisters. It was set in a nice old fashioned building but was very quiet on arrival. We actually ended up getting table service which I always find a bit odd in a pub. We started off with a couple of much needed pints whilst reading the menus. A while later our waiter came back to take the orders, he was nice and polite but there seemed to be an air of the disorganised and unkempt about him, something I can be equally guilty of myself. I ordered the lamb shank with veg and my partner ordered the burger and chips. After a reasonable wait the food came. The lamb was nice and tender and fell right off the bone. However, for me the meal was spoiled slightly by the inexplicable serving of some over boiled, unseasoned canned vegetables on the side. They were completely unnecessary and took away a lot from a decent piece of pub food. Apparently the burger was pretty good as well. We also ordered dessert and coffees which seemed to throw our waiter a bit but we got two large and rather lovely warm slabs of chocolate fudge cake and some decent coffee. It was a really nice way to finish the meal. We were accidentally double billed for one of the items but it was instantly taken care of without question. Overall it was a good meal to set us up for our trip back home to London. It was a shame the pub was so quiet and lacking in atmosphere, maybe we were just there too early in the evening as there only seemed to be a table with tourists and two men that spent more time going out for a cigarette than eating or drinking.
We took the short walk back to Salisbury train station along a road filled with sweet little houses and after managing to avoid the drunk patrolling the platforms we were on the train and headed back to London to see if our flat was still in one piece. Walking back from White City the signs were not too bad, just a few groups of harmless drunks until we turned into the road near home with a large crowd spilling out into the road from both sides thanks to the take away and the pub. Thankfully the noise didn't really spill over at all and it was nice and peaceful by the time we got home. With the first day of the carnival successfully avoided we needed to catch some sleep as tomorrow we would hit the town tourist style!
Stonehenge Tour Bus
Salisbury Cathedral
The Cloisters 83 Catherine Street, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP1 2DH
Labels:
Carnival,
Cathedral,
Old Sarum,
Pub,
Salisbury,
Stonehenge,
Stonehenge Tour,
The Cloisters,
Tourist
Sunday, 2 September 2012
A Royal Day Out
A Royal Day Out
When: August 2012
Where: Buckingham Palace State Rooms, The Royal Mews and the Queen's Gallery
Visiting Buckingham Palace was something I'd been looking forward to for a while. Whilst I'm not a monarchist by any stretch of the imagination, the chance to walk around a modern day working palace located right on your doorstop is something too big to turn down. So on an Olympic day of sunshine and showers we began our Royal Day Out. Buckingham Palace is just a short walk from Victoria station and the ticket collection office is easy enough to find, though if coming from the station you have to walk past the other parts of the palace that you will be visiting later on to get your tickets. The whole complex is highly staffed with lots of friendly uniformed guides that somehow remind me of the temporary staff you see during Christmas at Fortnum and Mason. The staff left a good first impression with no queuing required to collect our tickets. On leaving the ticket office we made the short walk to the first stop on our Royal Day Out ticket, The Queen's Gallery.

The Queen's Gallery
Tickets for the gallery are for a specific time, so it makes The Queen's Gallery a good place to start the tour. The current exhibition is Leonardo da Vinci: Anatomist on the study of human (and animal) anatomy. Before going up to the gallery proper you have your tickets checked and pass through "airport style security" which is basically no metal objects in pockets and bags and electronics through the x-ray machine. There is also a free cloakroom before entering the main exhibition where staff will stamp your ticket for free re-admission to the gallery for the next 12 months. The main gallery area is upstairs and there is a desk for free multi-lingual audio guides. The first room of the exhibition contains a short video explaining the background behind this exhibition and placing it into historical context as well as how the contents of the exhibition came in to the possession of the Royal Family. The exhibit is a series of anatomical sketches made during da Vinci's life as he hoped to better understand the human body. The exhibition places da Vinci's sketches alongside the beliefs at the time and compares them to what we know today.
During the exhibition we see how da Vinci continually struggles to bridge the gap between his observations and his beliefs, some of the things he observed and documented were not fully reproduced until hundreds of years after his death. Of particular interest are the sketches of the brain, human reproductive systems and the way in which our muscles work. We also see by comparison how da Vinci's sketches were very close to what appears in the anatomy books of today. As we learn, da Vinci never fully completed his work on human anatomy and the sketches from the exhibition are taken from a book made of his collected works and notes on the subject after his death.
In all this was not the most exciting of exhibitions but it was interesting to see how da Vinci battled between his existing beliefs and his discoveries. It is fascinating to think how much more advanced the fields of medicine would be today if someone had continued da Vinci's work after he died and had seen it through to completion. Instead all we can do is marvel at his inquisitive mind and his fantastic drawing and presentation skills which are near unmatched to this day.
The Royal Mews
In some way this middle part of the trip was much like visiting the royal car park. However, being a royal car park you have custom Rolls Royce as well as horses and carriages to contend with rather than the odd motor bike or Ford Mondeo. Again a complementary audio guide is provided to help understand the history of the Mews. The tour starts off by explaining the history of the Mews and how it grew as Buckingham Palace grew and that even today it is a fully working area complete with live in staff, not just a museum for tourists. The tour starts by looking at some of the carriages. There is also a small exhibit on the use of motor cars. Only Bentley or Rolls Royce will do for the Royals, custom made of course to give the best view of the Queen. There is also information on the change in role of the royal chauffeur over the years. We then enter the stable area and learn all about the horses and the training and preparation they go through as well as the Royal Family's love of horses and riding. There is also an interesting riding related gift from US president Obama on display here. As we move through the stables the end point is the magnificent golden carriage which is truly a special sight. On the way out there are a few horses you can take a look at, they appear well trained and oblivious to flash photography. Overall the Royal Mews is an interesting diversion but not something that I would have paid for separately.
The State Rooms at Buckingham Palace and Diamonds Exhibition
The grand finale and for me the real reason for this mini-adventure; to step inside Buckingham Palace and follow in the footsteps of ambassadors, dignitaries, celebrities and possibly some corgis. Once again it's through security and into a small holding area where we get a quick explanation of what to look forward to. Then it's time for the audio guide again and on to the Palace! The tour starts along a corridor that leads out on to the inner courtyard of the palace, the corridor is lined with some more modern pieces of art and the platform overlooking the courtyard contains lots of information on the history of the Palace. After this there is a trip up a magnificent staircase to the upper floors filled with room after room of precious art and antiques, at the end of the series of rooms is the throne room. After that there is a room filled with the masters of art from France, Italy and Holland. It is quite amazing to see such works of art altogether without being in an art gallery or museum. We then go through some more rooms which overlook the gardens and includes many more famous and fascinating pieces of furniture and decoration. There is then an exhibition Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration which was the only part of the day that felt crowded and a little rushed through but again there were some amazing pieces that you may never get to see that close up ever again. After this it was back to the final leg of the tour, down the staircase and into the sculpture gallery before leading out through what looked like a tea room and into the gardens to complete the trip. It is only after it's all over that you can truly take in the size and scale of Buckingham Palace, the tour covers but a quarter of the building and only a brief glimpse of the gardens and yet takes a good few hours with the assistance and information from the audio guide. Each room has a wow factor and it proved a fitting end to our Royal Day Out.
In Conclusion
Whilst it was not the cheapest way to spend an
afternoon it was certainly worthwhile. It was interesting to catch a
piece of living British History and one of the reasons people from across the
planet come to London. Whilst I don't think the Royal Mews and Queen's
Gallery are worth the individual admission costs, the combined ticket is great
value as it is only around £10 more than the state rooms alone and £5 for over
an hour of entertainment is pretty good value these days. It's also great
that there are complementary audio guides for all three parts of the day out as
they really add some depth to various carriages, clocks and other works of art.
The other great thing is that you can visit again as many times as you
want for the 12 months after your first visit just in case you want to see it
all again... and you never know, perhaps we will!
Royal Day Out Tickets £31.95Buckingham Palace , London SW1A 1AA
Tuesday, 21 August 2012
Simple Pleasures Part 1
Sausage In Batter With Chips, Please
Where: Local Chippy
When: Lunchtime on my day off
Mick's Fish Bar 493 Latimer Road London W10 6RD
Where: Local Chippy
When: Lunchtime on my day off
Mick's Fish Bar 493 Latimer Road London W10 6RD
Labels:
Chips,
Food,
Micks Fish Bar,
Simple Pleasures
Location:
London W10 6RD, UK
Thursday, 26 July 2012
The Curry House and James Bond
Tayyabs
When: 21st July 2012
Another Saturday, another trip to
East London. Today however, would be
different as I was able to spend my time enjoying two of my favourite British
exports, the curry house and James Bond! For the second week in a row I
wanted to dodge the chains and thought we'd try the institutional curry house
Tayyabs.
A good old fashioned curry house
experience is one of my favourite things. It brings back memories from my
childhood and the novelty of being given a small chocolate at the end of the
meal which to me was the height of luxury fine dining. It was also
special being able to have a good meal out whilst being vegetarian.
Anyway, times change, tastes change but the curry house remains as good
as ever.
Tayyabs is famous for its tandoori
cuisine, which is one of my favourite cooking styles. We meet our friend
and make the short walk from Aldgate East to the restaurant which is hard to
miss from the large neon signs out front. We took the advice to book a
table as apparently it can get very busy so we were a little surprised to find
only 1-2 other tables in use when we arrived. Within five minutes of
being given our menus our side of the restaurant was full to bursting, it was a
good job we booked after all! We had a table near the kitchen where I
could take a good look at the action. Service was brisk and polite but
nothing to get excited about. We ordered some starters to share:
delicious giant cubes of Paneer Tikka and some Lamb Chops straight from
the tandoor in a lovely acidic marinade.
We also had some very tasty Pakoras. Our starters were accompanied
by some Popadoms and chutneys. There
wasn't much wait for the food and we were off to a great start with that
addictive acidic tang of the marinated meat, I was enjoying this meal.
Before we'd even finished our
starters our mains came along filling up the table. I had one of the
specialty curries, Karahi Lamb Tikka Masala, my partner also had an identical
looking, but totally different tasting lamb curry. We shared a couple of amazing buttery Tandoori
Naans and some Karahi Bhindi, which to my taste was the only imperfect item
we'd ordered. This was a really great meal let down only by the rushed
and less than perfect service. It seems they have only one pace of
working irrespective of how busy the restaurant is. I would come back
here to eat again, though not without trying one of the other local grills in
the area and as good as the food was I would not make a special journey to come
here when I have the good old Star of Bombay just a short bus ride away!
Though they did present the bill with two Union Jack chocolates (for the
three of us!) to complete that famous curry house experience.
Designing 007: 50 Years of Bond Style
Where: Barbican
Centre, London
As much as I
love a good curry, it's no match for anything to do with James Bond. So
after some gentle persuasion we attended this exhibition at the Barbican.
There were 14 separate areas of the exhibition, a perfectly themed
entrance and the opportunity to have your photo taken with the classic Aston
Martin from Goldfinger. The
exhibition was divided into the various themes that has made Bond iconic over
the last 50 years and each was filled with film props including gadgets, guns
and the various outfits worn by Bond, the villains and the many Bond girls from
the 23 films.
The first room
of the exhibition was themed around gold and included the original Ken Adam
sketches for Fort Knox from Goldfinger, Oddjob's steel-brimmed hat as
well as Scaramanga's golden gun. So far so good as we squeezed into a
small room documenting the colourful life of James Bond's creator, Ian
Flemming. Flemming is just as interesting if not more so than the
character he created. He was a key
influence in the cinematic appearance of James Bond in terms of his dress and
background. Also a number of the characters that appear in the
books/films were named after Flemming's friends. The idea of James Bond
came from Flemming's time in the military and has passion for travel writing
and journalism.
The next section
was one that I particularly enjoyed, M's Office. This section contained a
number of Bond artefacts including passports, ID cards, credit cards, dossiers
as well as a bit about the characters of M and Moneypenny. The level of
detail in these props are one of the things I love about Bond films.
Despite all the fantastic and often ridiculous elements to these films
there is always a strong authenticity to the props used. Of course once
you have been briefed it's time to pick up your supplies from the Quartermaster
or Q Branch as we know it. Here we are treated to a selection of
briefcases, watches and other "ordinary" items that can be
transformed into lethal weapons, listening devices and escape routes at the
flick of a switch. There was also an extended section on the boat used in
the opening sequence of The Wold is Not Enough.
After this was
another James Bond staple, the casino. In this section there was a full
scale mock-up of the table and gamblers from Casino Royale forming the
centre piece of the room. In addition there were numerous mock ups of the
various casino outfits and clips projected of many of the famous Bond casino
scenes. There was also a dress from the forthcoming Skyfall which
was exciting to see. After the excitement of the casino there was a
section on the various countries and exotic places that Bond has visited over
the years and how the look of these places was created. The main focus
here was on India as seen in Octopussy and the fabulous space base from Moonraker.
There were two
main sections left after this, the next being Villains. This room was
filled with the costumes and props of many of the Bond villains, such as Rosa
Klebb's spiked shoe, Jaws' teeth, the "bomb surprise" and Boris from Goldeneye frozen solid with liquid nitrogen. There was also a section on the Bond
girls that help Bond out in the films including Solitaire with her card table
and Jinx in her bikini. Alas it was time to move downstairs in the Bond
lifts to visit the final room, the Ice Palace which celebrated Bond and all
things snowy from the famous ski stunts to the magnificent Ice Palace from The
World is Not Enough. There was also the famous cello (with skis
attached!) that Bond and Kara use to escape in The Living Daylights.
If I had one
complaint about this exhibition it would be the lack of any interactive display
areas, it would have been amazing to have been able to go hands on with some of
the Bond gear as well as take some photos of it, though from reading about the
lack of available items it is perhaps understandable. This exhibition is
clearly a must for suckers like me who can't wait till Skyfall later this year! After finishing up at the Ice Place it was
time to go home and reflect on a wonderful day of famous British exports, the
curry house and James Bond.
Designing 007:50 Years of Bond Style - Barbican Centre, Silk Street, London, EC2Y 8DS Until
5th September 2012
Thursday, 12 July 2012
Best of British

Best of British
St John Bread and Wine
When: July 2012
I planned this day with one idea in mind, "Think like a tourist." although my day did not turn out in quite that fashion I had planned it was still a lot more fun than my usual unplanned wanderings. Sometimes it is easy to take living in Central London for granted. My original plan was to start the day with a filling breakfast at St John Bread and Wine followed up with an exhibition, then a nice early dinner with a good film to round off the day.
The first key difference between think like a tourist and act like a tourist is getting up. I had planned to get up for breakfast, but after a hard week at work (or in my case half a week of work and half a week of PS3) it's hard to get up, get ready and go get some breakfast on the other side of town. Also the inertia of there always being another time to do this starts to kick in. Anyway, by the time we made it out the house and on to the tube it was approaching lunch time. Liverpool St is around 25 minutes away on the tube and Spitalfields is only a few minutes walk from the station. Taking the scenic route along Commerical Street we arrived at St John to take a look and see if we felt like lunch and also like spending good money on lunch. After some debate, a quick circle of the market and some persuasion on my part we ended up back at St John Bread and Wine and settled in for lunch.
The restaurant is sparsely decorated despite its smart white and black exterior, there are simple tables and chairs inside with wait staff decked out in all white chef-style uniforms. We were seated and quickly given menus, a jug of fresh water and a plate with some very tasty slices of brown and white sourdough bread. The crowd inside was pretty mixed, not fitting a particular scene in terms of age or dress but erring on the casual. I washed down my food with some Meantime lager, our other drink was apple juice. The food menu changes daily depending on what is available and today we both went with rabbit after I was talked out of a 40 minute wait for the pigeon. There was a short wait for our food, a full plate with two large pieces of rabbit each, some nice greenery, baby carrots and some aioli on the side. The food was really good with everything complementing the rabbit. The only negative was having to watch out for bones in the rabbit but the food was delicious and filling leaving us with the debate of dessert.
The debate was short lived, though in hindsight we should have had one dessert to share rather than one each. We had the brioche with apricots and the chocolate cake with crème fraiche ice cream. The brioche was fresh and buttery to the point of almost tasting like a good croissant, they contrasted well with the sweet, yet sharp apricots in their juices and a little bite of the crème fraiche ice cream to cleanse the palate and set off on another round. The chocolate cake was almost brownie like and tasted like it was made with good cocoa or chocolate and again the ice cream acted as a cleansing respite from the intensity of the chocolate. At this point we were stuffed to bursting after enjoying some great food. Despite the quality of the food with the bill at just over £50 it was not a cheap lunch and perhaps would have made a much better dinner. Anyway, St John certainly lived up to its Internet hype and is somewhere I'd like to dine at again.

Damien Hirst
We then began a brief and much needed walk through the city of London and across Southwark Bridge towards Tate Modern. We had mixed expectations of this exhibition, which I have to admit I was keen to see after reading some of the reviews. Not having booked we joined a fairly long queue for tickets as there were only two people issuing tickets for a fairly significant queue. We made our way upstairs to the exhibition which thankfully was not too crowded. The exhibition is divided up into 14 rooms displaying Hirst’s work largely in chronological order.
The first room had a rather striking picture of a young Hirst posing with a head from the anatomy department of Leeds University, there were also some pots and pans stuck on one wall and some rather attractively placed coloured boxes in the corner of another wall. In the next two rooms there were some spot paintings and medicine cabinets. We also had some animals suspended in formaldehyde, in this case the famous shark, sheep, fish and sheep's head. This room was a bit like a larger than life museum exhibition and was quite fascinating to look at. You can spend time out staring the shark, watching the fluffiness of the sheep's coat and the tranquil but dead eyes of the fish suspended in time and space and strapped to the walls. My highlight of this room was A Thousand Years, a large glass cabinet with a fresh cows head in it, the cabinet is used to breed flies and you can see them flying around, lying dead or resting. Somehow it all feels very human when you talk about it, the fear and fascination of the bloody head stuck on the floor and the distance the glass casing gives is quite un-nerving.
Room 4 looks like the kind of thing you might see in a museum on 20th Century life 100 years from now. The large glass case with the empty office chair and desk. There is also a cabinet in the style of the pill boxes but filled with various cigarette butts. Do we see ourselves like this now, or is this how our great grandchildren will see us, in a museum display case much like we now see life in the mines or on a traditional farm today? Room 5 was overshadowed by Room 6. In this room butterflies are living their lives in a controlled environment, in the room before they are stuck onto painted canvas to make works of art. Who is the artist running our lives, it doesn't feel like God/a god.
Room 7 was a giant pharmacy which made me feel quite uncomfortable, the giant floor to ceiling cases filled with medicine and the lack of humanity made the experience of walking around the room in silence with strangers quite unusual. Being an observer rather than a participant in what is otherwise a familiar domain makes it take on a whole new perspective. After taking our pills in Room 7, Room 8 gave us the hypnotic Spin Paintings. Room 9 I found much more fascinating, walking between the halves of a cow and its calf suspended in time and the huge white ashtray filled with the stench of cigarette butts was truly an unpleasant sensation.
Moving into Room 10 we entered a giant supply cupboard for a hospital with wall to wall cabinets of beautifully organised, spotless pieces of metallic medical equipment. We were being prepared for death and now that science has failed to preserve us we head back to Religion and Room 11. In this room there are beautiful stained glass style butterfly paintings and a marble statue of an angel, however one that is distinctly and fatally real with its organs and insides on show. In Room 12 maybe we head one step closer to hell with a 70s shag rug made of flies and a beautiful sheep in a case to keep the neighbours talking.
Room 13 offers its own vile conclusion as we are offered a selection of recent Hirst works which feel like horrible blinged our parodies of his previous work. All the mysticism of life, death and beliefs have been replaced with cold, hard cash. Items sold for auction and private consumption rather than placed in a gallery for all and everyone to see. What's left after you buy into consumerism, maybe just death or perhaps an inner peace from selling all your things and a more simple life? The serene beauty of the dove frozen in time feels like the right way to end this journey.
This exhibition throws up lots of questions on the nature of art. For me the exhibition was like walking through a museum depicting the last 50 years of life on Earth in abstract. The emotions gained from the experience though are quite different from walking through the National History Museum, looking at the animals in London Zoo, or wandering through a prefab house at the Science Museum.
In all we had a day that was much more than the sum of its parts, things we could feel, taste and experience but that felt familiar and close to home and try as we might to break our patterns and do, feel or behave in a different way we ended up exactly the same.
St. John Bread and Wine 94-96 Commercial Street, London, E1 6LZ.
Tate Modern Bankside, London, SE1 9TGDamien Hirst till 9th September 2012
Labels:
Art,
Damien Hirst,
Day Out,
Food,
London,
St John Bread and Wine,
Tate Modern,
Tourist
Monday, 2 July 2012
Found In Nostalgia
Tokyo Diner
When: June 2012
Where: Chinatown, London and Odeon Covent Garden
I think this combination was a match made in heaven, simple delicious Japanese food with a heartwarming, nostalgic romance to follow. We started going to Tokyo Diner as an alternative to Okawari, a Japanese/Korean restaurant a few doors up the road. However, as Okawari has now changed name and possibly owners at least twice in the last few years we now are left with Tokyo Diner for cheap Japanese food. The restaurant is supposed to be authentic Japanese complete with Japanese staff, small chairs and tables and a no tips policy. The owner is authentically eccentric English. A perfect combination indeed.
As we sat over green tea debating whether I should join my partner whilst visiting her family that weekend I realised how much I missed coming here and how long it had been. The menu had changed a little and the prices had increase but once my Katsu Don arrived with steaming hot rice, freshly scrambled egg and pork in breadcrumbs I felt right at home. As such a simple please was devoured with a cold can of beer and a warm glass life felt really good right down to the last grain of rice. The one thing I really love is how fresh the food feels, though maybe one day I'll try something else on the menu that isn't Katsu Don!
Moonrise Kingdom (Wes Anderson, 2012)
After a filling and tasty meal it was time for the film. We finally decided on Odeon Covent Garden, I can't remember exactly why. For some reason they had three films starting at the same time and whilst I'm sure it helps with staffing costs the small lobby area was totally over-crowded and it was quite unpleasant to wait for the doors to open. I was glad we got there early as the surprisingly (even though it was a Wednesday) the screening was completely full bar a few of the Premier seats.
I liked Moonrise Kingdom, the casting, acting and atmosphere was great but in particular it captured a world in transition where the outcasts become the wanted ones and the wanted ones become cast out a little, yet through human decency we all pull through. I loved the nostalgia of the scout camp and of being 11 years old and taking your fist steps into an adult world. In the case of our hero it is love and responsibility. For our scouts it is acceptance of those different from yourself. Bruce Willis' character is able to start a family and give someone a home. For Ed Norton his Scout Master saves the day in the face of disaster after he overcomes his own mistakes.
The film is tied together with some Coen Brothers style narration that somehow made me think of the Big Lebowski and adds a layer of distance to the film that we often forget about. We are watching a re-telling and not the story itself. I think it also fits well with Wes Anderson's nostalgic images that look like a cross between a fashion shoot and a glossy magazine from the 1960s with a nice dose of exaggeration that comes from re-telling a story.
So in all a perfect evening of warm nostalgia from the copy of an authentic Japanese restaurant in the heart of London to the re-creation of small town (or in this case island!) American life in the 1960s.
When: June 2012
Where: Chinatown, London and Odeon Covent Garden
I think this combination was a match made in heaven, simple delicious Japanese food with a heartwarming, nostalgic romance to follow. We started going to Tokyo Diner as an alternative to Okawari, a Japanese/Korean restaurant a few doors up the road. However, as Okawari has now changed name and possibly owners at least twice in the last few years we now are left with Tokyo Diner for cheap Japanese food. The restaurant is supposed to be authentic Japanese complete with Japanese staff, small chairs and tables and a no tips policy. The owner is authentically eccentric English. A perfect combination indeed.
As we sat over green tea debating whether I should join my partner whilst visiting her family that weekend I realised how much I missed coming here and how long it had been. The menu had changed a little and the prices had increase but once my Katsu Don arrived with steaming hot rice, freshly scrambled egg and pork in breadcrumbs I felt right at home. As such a simple please was devoured with a cold can of beer and a warm glass life felt really good right down to the last grain of rice. The one thing I really love is how fresh the food feels, though maybe one day I'll try something else on the menu that isn't Katsu Don!
Moonrise Kingdom (Wes Anderson, 2012)
After a filling and tasty meal it was time for the film. We finally decided on Odeon Covent Garden, I can't remember exactly why. For some reason they had three films starting at the same time and whilst I'm sure it helps with staffing costs the small lobby area was totally over-crowded and it was quite unpleasant to wait for the doors to open. I was glad we got there early as the surprisingly (even though it was a Wednesday) the screening was completely full bar a few of the Premier seats.
I liked Moonrise Kingdom, the casting, acting and atmosphere was great but in particular it captured a world in transition where the outcasts become the wanted ones and the wanted ones become cast out a little, yet through human decency we all pull through. I loved the nostalgia of the scout camp and of being 11 years old and taking your fist steps into an adult world. In the case of our hero it is love and responsibility. For our scouts it is acceptance of those different from yourself. Bruce Willis' character is able to start a family and give someone a home. For Ed Norton his Scout Master saves the day in the face of disaster after he overcomes his own mistakes.
The film is tied together with some Coen Brothers style narration that somehow made me think of the Big Lebowski and adds a layer of distance to the film that we often forget about. We are watching a re-telling and not the story itself. I think it also fits well with Wes Anderson's nostalgic images that look like a cross between a fashion shoot and a glossy magazine from the 1960s with a nice dose of exaggeration that comes from re-telling a story.
So in all a perfect evening of warm nostalgia from the copy of an authentic Japanese restaurant in the heart of London to the re-creation of small town (or in this case island!) American life in the 1960s.
Labels:
America,
Bill Murray,
Bruce Willis,
Coen Brothers,
Dinner,
Ed Norton,
Film,
Japan,
Katsu Don,
Moonrise Kingdom,
Nostalgia,
Tokyo Diner,
Wes Anderson
Location:
City of Westminster, London WC2H 7JJ, UK
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